Reflections on Picher, Oklahoma

On May 10, 2008, the town of Picher, Oklahoma, sustained a blow from a massive EF-4 tornado. I use the word “sustained” because saying that the town “survived” the tornado wouldn’t be accurate. Seven people lost their lives in a community that was for all intents and purposes already dead. The tornado was just the last, devastating twist in a place torn asunder by the very industry that once comprised its economic backbone. Ghost towns don’t survive; they just fade into oblivion, and there in far northeast Oklahoma, less than a mile south of the Kansas border, Picher–dubbed by the media as “America’s Most Toxic Town”–had been fading long before the tornado loomed on the horizon to finish the job.

It is an eerie thing to visit a tornado ghost town. Back in spring of 2009, my buddy Bill Oosterbaan and I drove through the empty streets that thread beneath the massive, brooding hills of lethal “chat” left from the city’s lead and zinc mining operations. The mining ceased in 1967, leaving residents to deal with the potential for cave-ins, a tainted water supply, and a poisoned environment that earned their little community the dubious status of poster child for the Tar Creek Superfund.

On the south end of the town, you can see where the tornado blew through. In a thriving city, rebuilding would have largely erased the scars, but no rebuilding will ever take place in Picher, and tornado trash remains strewn across the landscape. Fifty years from now, things probably won’t look all that different from the way they are today. Time means nothing to a ghost.

But I’ve already written more than I had planned to. My initial intention was to steer you toward my previous article on Picher that I posted last year, which includes photos of the tornado-damaged part of town plus my uncomfortable reflections on my visit there. Picher is not large, nor is it pretty, and it’s certainly not inviting, but it is a place you’re not likely to forget.

A Tornado Ghost Town

Two years after being completely leveled by a 1.7-mile-wide tornado, the town of Greensburg, Kansas, is  far down the road to recovery and has become a shining emblem of Green America. Not so with Picher, Oklahoma. One year after its visitation by an EF-4 monster, half of the small mining town is worse than gone, and the other half appears just a shadow’s breath away from becoming a ghost town

neighborhood1

Picher, Oklahoma

The town’s demise is not due strictly to the tornado; the storm simply drove the last, very large nail into the coffin. Driving into the community from any direction, you’ll inevitably see the true culprits: vast piles of tailings tainted with the toxic residues of zinc and lead mining operations. Ironically, the same industry that at one time formed the town’s economic backbone has also spelled its doom. Unlike Greensburg, Kansas, which went green and found its salvation in  national attention and an influx of funds, poor little Picher is blighted beyond redemption.

According to the Washington Post, “The mines were shut down in the 1970s, and all that is left in and around Picher are about 1,000 people and giant gray piles of mining waste, known locally as ‘chat,’ some hundreds of feet tall and acres wide, that loom over abandoned storefronts and empty lots.

“The piles are loaded with heavy metals that have contaminated the air and the groundwater and placed the northeastern Oklahoma town in the middle of the Tar Creek Superfund Site, the largest and one of the most polluted in the country. To add to Picher’s misery, a federal study released in January determined that the abandoned mines beneath the city could cause cave-ins without warning.”

That was back in January, 2007, before the tornado. There certainly are no thousand souls left in Picher today. I doubt there are one hundred. It’s a depressing, ugly, desolate place. Yet there are people who remember and love it as home, and a handful who still call it so.

Nothing Left

Nothing Left

Last Saturday, my buddy Bill Oosterbaan and I began our chase day with a visit to Picher. The northern part of the town is just a town, though with its empty streets, it reminded me of the set for a spaghetti Western. As for the southern part, it’s blown to smithereens.

bike-in2

Bike in Tree

Many of the homes have been cleared away, leaving only cement slabs where neighborhoods once stood. Other battered structures remain, their siding stripped away, roofs missing, walls torn out, twisted window frames gazing vacantly at a landscape of tortured trees, tornado trash, lethal chat hills, and toxic lagoons. Debris litters the fields, and sheets of tin and other objects wrap and twist around the treetops. No one is in a hurry to clean any of it up. There’s no need to. No one is coming back.

What's Left of a House

What's Left of a House

On the north end of the damage track stands an old storm cellar. Presumably, in a tornado that claimed seven lives, the cellar saved a few when the time came for it to serve its purpose. Once a house stood nearby; today, the rough-hewn block shelter stands alone, much like the rest of what is left of Picher, Oklahoma. The cellar resembles a crypt, and in a way, I suppose it is–a memorial marker for a town that is no more.

Storm Cellar

Storm Cellar